On a wet weekend in January when everyone is over their Christmas colds and just about given up on the New year’s resolutions, 15 WALXers headed off for an adventure in the French Alps.
Half of us had left a few days earlier to explore Turin for the weekend whilst the other half trained it, drove or taxied for the exceedingly early flight from Gatwick.
On landing at Turin airport, we were all reunited and met by Laurianne who drove us very competently the 3.5-hour journey across the Italian border and up the windy mountainous roads to the little village of Saint Veran high in the Queyras mountains in France.
As we got higher the roadside views turned to white snowy mountains with pine forests and deep drops below the twisting roads. A stunning drive for those that were at ease with hair pin bends!
We arrived to a friendly greeting from Fanny and Nico at the Costebelle Auberge situated at the end of the highest village in Europe. Saint Veran is one of Frances ‘most beautiful villages’ with a population of 300 that significantly increases during the summer and winter with visitors to this stunning area.
The Auberge is a traditional family run farmhouse, warm and inviting with a cosy wood burner burning bright as we came in after our long journey. Immediately we swapped our boots for crocs from the Boot room – (the norm in winter resorts to prevent snowy wet boots inside) and took up residence in our allocated rooms.
The afternoon was spent exploring the village or sipping ‘vin chaud’ in a local bar.
The food at the auberge was homecooked hearty food that catered for most diets, plenty of it and ideal for the wintery conditions outside. Sally one of our guides arrived that evening to join us for supper and a brief introduction on what to expect over the coming days. We were to meet Bernard (her husband) and Philippe our two guides for the next 3 days in the morning.
Day 1 -After an early breakfast at 07:30am we kitted ourselves with thermals, buffs, hats, gloves and waterproofs as well as carrying our pack lunch with water and flasks. We gathered outside in the sunshine to meet Bernard and Phillippe to get fitted with snowshoes and poles. AND then we all had to carry either a shovel or avalanche probe. Finally, each of us was fitted with an avalanche monitor that we strapped under our clothes and would keep for the 3 days. Each day we would have to switch it on at the start and off at end of our hike and we were checked by the leaders that they were working – this is a precaution so that in the case of an avalanche we could be found (hopefully). As you can imagine our back packs were pretty full – thankfully, we had all been training with weighted back packs for the last 3 months.
A briefing in snowshoeing followed but mainly we were told ‘best to learn on the go’…. So off we went.
Snowshoeing is SLOWshoeing. You can’t walk fast – you get hot very quickly especially when you are heading up and up and up! And that is what we did for most of that day. We headed up though the woodland on a windy path dipping in and out of the sunshine. The sky was blue, the snow white and crisp, the forest a deep green. Today was about getting up above the treeline and out onto the ridges so that we could see the best views across the stunning Queyras mountain tops. We walked and we rested, we had drink breaks, we had snack breaks but we trekked and it was hard – for some it was harder than others. The altitude of over 2000m made it harder and at times we struggled with this, you could be out of breath after only a few steps of climbing. BUT it felt like a real adventure, all the training we had been doing was for this and it made it worthwhile. Yes we were pushing ourselves but with each step we got higher, we supported each other, we waited for one another, and no one was left behind.
After a climb of over 600m and around 3 hours we finally got to our destination around lunchtime. Here we sat sipping soup and munching on our lunch on a ridge in the warm sunshine high up on top of the mountains feeling like we had conquered Mount Blanc if not Everest!
The route down was when the fun started…..being able to romp down the fresh snow making your own tracks took a little getting used to in snowshoes and some mastered it easier than others. Lots of snowslips in the deep snow that was met with laughter or frustration! It bought out the child in some!
Once we finally got back to the Auberge around 4pm – we had been out since 9am – we were all shattered but immensely proud of ourselves. We de booted, took off our wet outer layers, a reviving hot shower and met up by the wood burner to dissect the day’s events. After a large supper we were all tucked up in bed by 10pm wondering what the next day would bring on our hike up to The Refuge de la Blanche.
Day 2
Today we were hiking a gentler incline of about 8km up to the refuge on a well-used path but the conditions outside were a lot different to the previous day. Fresh snow had fallen overnight and outside was misty and heavy with more snow to fall. We headed off with even heavier packs as we were to stay over at the refuge so needed some spares for the night.
The walk up to the refuge was an easier walk than the previous day but the whiteout conditions made it a vastly different experience. The path followed an open track around the mountain so the views were expansive when the weather allowed. It felt like an expedition – all trailing behind each other along a long wide path up and around the mountain. The gap in the group got wider, some needed more regular stops and at one point the group split into two but we had to rejoin when the weather closed in.
There was huge relief on all our faces when we finally spotted the refuge – at first from a distance it had looked like a large rock but as you got closer it appeared like a ‘mirage in the dessert’ and turned into the wonderful wooden refuge we had all been longing to arrive at.
On arrival we quickly de booted and took off our wet outer layers hanging them to dry near a large wood burner and we were then shown to a long wooden table adorned with huge plates of omelette and salad which was followed by a delicious berry panna cotta dessert.
The refuge was warm and welcoming – a large open eating area with long wooden tables and benches, huge windows all around so you could see the stunning scenery outside. Then through a doorway was a corridor to the 6 bed dormitories and large bathroom and shower area. All the rooms were basic with 2 sets of bunk beds and a mezzanine area with 2 beds.
The dining area of the refuge had an all-day bar for hot, cold and alcoholic beverages and an area packed with games of all types to pass the time. Once we sorted our rooms, the afternoon entertainment ranged from outdoor snow games, (snow lady building, snowball fight and snow angels), snoozing, shower, or getting out the games – Rummikub in one corner and a very noisy Boggle in another!
In the evening, another fabulous meal served up by the staff at the Refuge, lots of chat about the days snowshoeing adventure and some relief that tomorrow was all about going down…..or was it!
Breakfast at the refuge was very hearty but by far the most popular item was the large jar of local honey that was greedily passed around the table until we must have almost finished it. Perhaps we knew what lay ahead and needed the energy!
We set off from the refuge around 08:30 that morning – fresh snow had fallen and it was again pretty much a white out. Our group was to split into two – Group One would head up over the ridge close to the Italian border and then come down and join group Two who would head straight down through fresh deep snow and take the route through the valley.
Sadly, due to weather conditions we couldn’t do the planned walk up and step over the border into Italy but once up on the ridge Group 1 walkers would see the view across the mountains into Italy.
This trek proved a lot harder than they had expected with some very deep snow and a long slow climb up there – there were 5 in this group and they did amazingly well. It was a tough walk with a few slips in very deep snow but they were all super proud they achieved it.
Group Two headed down into the valley but first had to pass through some incredibly soft deep powdery snow which also had its challenges and we carved a path in the snow that would’ve helped Group One once they reached it.
Coming down through the valley was incredibly special – it was beautiful and peacefully quiet in the pine forest that followed the river down the mountain. It was more sheltered so less wind and the weather seemed to get better as we got to lower grounds. We carved our path along the winding track through the trees and took our time. It was a very relaxed day and the group were able to take a more leisurely pace. By the time we got to our lunch spot both groups were reunited.
The final trek back to the Auberge was about an hour and was met with relief by some but an enthusiastic sense of achievement by all. After returning all our equipment to the guides we gave our thanks and said our goodbyes to Bernard and Phillipe. At this point, the sun had returned and once again it was warm so some sat out the front of the Auberge in the sun with a well-earned beer, some headed to a roof top bar in the town for some wine and some headed to their rooms for a shower and a much needed rest.
That night we once again ate and drank well before the early start the next morning for our flight and journey home.
Many of us on this trip achieved personal goals and overcame fears, most have never snowshoed before. As a group we were amazing – we didn’t all know each other but we worked as a team supporting each other through the training, sharing journeys and motivating each other on the hikes. We all came back in one piece and we are all now firm friends.
This is what WALX is all about. Since becoming part of WALX I have met so many great people from all walks (excuse the pun) of life. I am still meeting new WALXers that I want to share how becoming part of WALX for whatever reason can bring so much to your life. It’s never too late to start your journey and make new friendships and overcome challenges no matter how big or small.
Well done to those that joined this trip, if you think you would like to join a trip like this next year then contact me or click on this link to book.
