Steps Back in Time – part 2

After Evora as we were so close we decided to venture further into rural Portugal and visit the beautiful medieval village perched high up on a hill right on the border with Spain called Montsaraz. The Aire was situated with one of the best views in Portugal and it was less than 50 minutes from us on a road that took us through miles and miles of olive groves.

We discovered that Portugal is 5th in the world for olive oil production behind Spain, Greece, Italy and Tunisia, they have been producing some of the finest olive oil since Roman times.  We came across olive tree plantations from saplings to fully matured groves time and time again. You can see that this is a very important industry with huge refineries dominating the landscape outside the towns. It must be an important industry bringing a lot of jobs to these areas.

Montsaraz is a small village with approx. 800 inhabitants totally enclosed within the fortress walls. At one end of the fortress is the ruins of a castle that contains an old bullring that has been reconstructed.

Montsaraz is one of the oldest settlements in Portugal, archaeologists found evidence dating back to the Romans and it was later occupied by Arabs, Mozarabs and Jews before the Christian repopulation in 12th century, when the castle was first constructed.

The name Montsaraz comes from the Iberian word Xarez which is an transliteration of the Arabic word Saris meaning Gum Rock Rose, a plant that still surrounds the dry acidic slate based landscape. Of which I discovered many when I ventured off a walk with George to reach the lake below around 1.5 miles and 470 ft down.

Lake Alqueva is the largest artificial lake in Europe and is formed by the dam of the same name which plugs the river Guadiana. From our Aire we could see the most spectacular views that my photos do not do justice to across the lake and beyond into Spain.

We explored the cobbled streets of Montsaraz, it was actually pretty deserted with a few artisanal shops for tourists, some cafes and restaurants and some odd Nativity life size and faceless models. I found them quite disturbing especially as the place was so quiet. It made me think if we stayed here too long we would also be turned to stone (they were made from paper mâché.)  

Whilst at Montsaraz we bumped into a couple that we had met before and they suggested our next stop Serpa another small walled town which worked perfectly for us as it was at the end of very scenic drive. We arranged to meet them at the municipal campsite the next day.

I woke early the next morning to catch the sunrise  – I got up and crept from the van and out onto the area where it was usually filled with tourists taking photos of the views. I was there alone to watch the sun rising  – it was very special.

We drove to Serpa about 2 hours journey south west and got together with Frank, Taylor and their poodle for a late lunch. We found a local restaurant with a very friendly owner who served Bob a very large beer (1 litre) in a glass with a bell on it and said ‘Ring it when it is empty and I’ll bring you a free one’.  Ring the bell he did and the owner came out with a glass the size of an expresso cup!

We explored Serpa, another pretty but deserted town and decided it would be better to spend New Year back by the coast some where a bit more lively.

8 Responses

  1. Your writing is becoming more descriptive and informative with every blog. Keep it up, anything is better than the awful weather here!

  2. Oh my goodness looks so good. Actual sunshine! Keep the blogs coming. Really enjoying the descriptions!

  3. I agree with Stephanie, this gets better and better, especially in the early hours when I can hear the rain thundering down on the skylight! I know paper and ink are old-fashioned but, ever thought of writing a book, with pictures of course?

  4. Now caught up with all your travels… Happy New Year to you both. Spain and Portugal look great… and are countries that we don’t know very well, so, it’s lovely to read about your experiences. Lots of rain in Dorset as well… With high winds, so much so that Gilly cancelled this week’s Badbury Rings session and all went for coffee in Wimborne instead 😀

  5. Dear Lucie

    Happy new year to you, Bob and George! Although I have dipped in and out of your blog, it has been one of my new year resolutions to properly catch up on all your adventures, so on this wet and grey afternoon I have sat down with my laptop and a hot choccy and read the whole thing, start to finish! Although you’re not finished of course!

    What a wonderful time you are having! Your blog has been a thoroughly enjoyable read. I have learnt lots about the places you have visited, I like the mix of historical and local information you have shared along with your thoughts and experiences, and wonderful photos.

    I never knew how spectacular Ireland is, all those beaches – wow! No wonder you were swimming every day. The forested areas and lakes look beautiful too. I can see why Galway was on your list to visit, it’s on mine now too! And I did not know there were so many peat/blanket bogs in Ireland.

    You, Bob and George really seem to have found your mojo with Moho life! The video of the van was great, can’t believe the size of your bed! The balance of walks and metal detecting obviously suits you both, good to have your own pursuits when living so closely. But such lovely times together too, and with family, you have explored so many interesting places. I have had the map in one hand looking up locations whilst reading, getting a sense of your journey!

    The range of aires you’ve stayed in has been interesting, and how you have managed through periods of rain – you are always smiling in your pictures no matter the weather!

    I have been so impressed with your healthy eating and the range of delicious meals you have made, as well as the chocolate and almond cake – yum! More recipes please!

    It’s intriguing to see the change in scenery now you are in Europe – Santiago de Compostela and Com Jesus do Monte look so interesting, though I don’t think I fancy the chapel of skulls! I look forward to following your onward journey, wherever you end up next… hopefully not having to walk up and down so many steps!

    I was sorry not to see you when you were back, but it sounded like you were super busy with friends and family, hopefully we can catch up next time. For now, I will continue to enjoy reading about your travels… take care xx

  6. Wow ! The fortress town looks sooo old and interesting! But those figures are a little creepy ! 😳. You are seeing some fabulous places that most of us will never do ! Your descriptions are so vivid , it almost feels like I’m there too ! Keep them coming Lucie , xx

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